We have a weather window and decide to take it, leaving Wallace Bight Lagoon at 0545 hrs, near high tide. It’s raining, finally. If we’re lucky, the rain will hang around awhile.

We had an easy cruise up to Khutze Inlet, arriving at 1000 hrs, and anchored in our usual spot overlooking the spectacular falls.

It’s going to be another hot one, so I figured I didn’t need my fleece union suit today. It’s already 64 degrees at 0600 hrs.

I set out paddling along the north shore again this morning, hoping to see something worth photographing, or not. It’s another gorgeous morning, so just it’s enough just to enjoy the incredible beauty of this place.

I’d paddled for about fifteen minutes, looking along the waterline for sea stars, cucumbers, urchins, whatever, when I looked up and this black bear was staring back at me. At the time we made eye contact, he was sitting in the grass, just enjoying the morning. He didn’t know what to make of me. Since I was only about 20 feet from him, I decided I’d better give it a little reverse. I didn’t want to scare him off, but I didn’t want to be eaten either.

He intently watched my maneuvering and decided I wasn’t an immediate threat, so he decided to turn a few rocks to see what he could find for breakfast.

In the meantime I was trying to maneuver so that I wasn’t shooting into the sun, and wasn’t too close, and about the time I figured I had a good angle, a crow started making a lot of racket and the bear stopped to see what the commotion was about, and then turned tail and took off like a shot for cover in the trees. Oh, well.

About that time, Al called me on the radio and told me to be back by 0900 hrs for our Sunday breakfast. Yipee! Love those Sunday breakfasts.

I headed for the entrance to the lagoon to see what the current looked like. The current along the shore, was slightly against me, so I decided to try to paddle on through and then ride the current back in. Just to be certain the current was going in the direction I thought it was, I paddled to the center of the channel and turned around. Well, it was like deja vu from yesterday. Once again I was barely able to make any headway at all. So, I paddled as hard as I possiblly could and eventuall made my way to where the channel widened and the current was weaker. So much for going outside. I headed for the boat, looking forward to a delicious breakfast.

I spotted a tree floating with some Mew Gulls hitching a ride.

I couldn’t wait to take a look around the lagoon, and hopefully beyond, if the current isn’t too strong in the entrance. It’s a very large lagoon, with lots of little coves to explore. So, I set out paddling along the north shore, constantly reminding myself to keep the land on the right so I wouldn’t get lost. It’s a very low tide again this morning, so there’s lots of interesting sea life exposed that you wouldn’t normally get to see, like this huge sea cucumber.

Using all his hundreds of little tube feet, he was slowly oozing his way toward deeper water, .

I headed for the entrance to our lagoon, hoping to take a look at the anchorage we had used years ago when we visited Wallace Bight. Al took a look at it yesterday in the dinghy and said we must have been crazy. He says at low tide there are roaring rapids and a huge dropoff. I wanted to take a look.

When I got to the entrance, the water didn’t look like it was running too fast, so I headed through. I seemed to be moving pretty fast, so I decided to turn around to see just how tough a paddle I’d have on returning. I didn’t check the tide tables before I left, so I didn’t know when the tide would turn. Well, when I turned around and started paddling, I was moving backwards. I paddled harder. Still, no headway. Do I turn back around and let the current carry me out and then wait hours for slack so that I can get back in? I don’t think so. I paddled with all my might, and eventually I started making a little headway. It seemed like forever, but I finally got into where the lagoon opens up and the current lessened. Whew!

I slowly headed back toward the boat, exploring the sea life along the shore, as I rested.

I saw lots of rock crabs in one area.

I thought this sea snail was pretty.

Suddenly, my VHF radio came to life. I just about jumped out of my skin. This was my first VHF call. It was Al asking me if I was going over to take a look at the rapids He said it’s near slack, so I shouldn’t have any difficulty getting out of our lagoon. So, I headed back to the entrance, which was still running like a river. There were tiny whirlpools and lots of disturbed water — a regular E-ticket ride. But I hung in there and had the ride of my life!

Al said it was only an eighth of a mile over to the rapids. I’d been paddling for two hours already, so that eighth of a mile felt like 8 miles. But, I finally made it, and he was right. We must have been crazy to go through that entrance, even at high water slack.

I headed back for our lagoon. It was getting really hot, and of course I had to paddle right into the sun. I was dressed for the 50 degree water, so I had on all my layers, including my fleece union suit. I’m beginning to think I’m more likely to die from heat stroke than cold shock. The tide still hadn’t turned, so I had to paddle against the current, again. Luckily it was only running about 2 knots. I eventually made it through the entrance and into where there was very little current. While I rested, I took some shots of a Bonaparte’s Gull. He was taking it easy too.

The Bonaparte stood up and started staring in the water. I thought he was admiring himself. He was a handsome devil.

But then………………….

he sprung into action, catching a little breakfast.

Which reminds me — I haven’t had any breakfast.

My first task this morning, if I wanted to go kayaking, was to untangle an 80 ft. tree from our anchor chain. Al was fast asleep, and would be until atleast 0800 hrs. One of the branches of the tree had apparently become lodged in the mud bottom during the night. So, I got the boat hook and managed to pivot it away from the boat just long enough to get my kayak in the water and away from the boat.

This seal thought the tree was a great place to haul out and catch some rays.

Her pup thought the log was keen too.

I guess I should be thankful for the tree, because I paddled all the way out to the entrance to the inlet and never found anything else to photograph. I did, however, manage to get a couple of shots of this Red Throated Loon.

We’ve decided to move over to Wallace Bight Lagoon, just 4 miles from here. We don’t want to have to deal with that tree anymore.

A beautiful waterfall has formed on Finlayson Channel after all the rain we had recently.

The entrance to the lagoon at Wallace Bight is very narrow and shallow. We’re entering at close to high tide, so the least depth we see is 11 feet — not a problem.

We’ve never been in this anchorage before. I’m impressed with its beauty.

While having dinner, I looked out and saw a black bear feeding on some grass. Unfortunately, he was in deep shade and I was shooting into the sun, so I couldn’t get a photo — maybe he’ll come back tomorrow. I like this place already.

The sunset this evening was outstanding.

What a beautiful day!

Today I explored the south shore. There weren’t any animals out and about, but the lower low Spring Tide exposed an abundance of sea life to check out, especially sea stars.

And, because it was such a low lower tide, beautiful sea urchins were exposed as well.

I also discovered this bright orange little guy, which I believe is a Metandrocarpa Taylori, if I’ve identified it accurately in “Seashore Life of the Northern Pacific Coast”. He’s only a little over a 1/4 inche in diameter, but what he lacks in size, he makes up for in brilliance.

There were also millions of tiny fish swimming in schools and balls.

I spotted this berry, which I’d never seen before. It’s called Devil’s Club. The Northwest Coast Indians believed that Devil’s Club had magical powers, and made charms from its wood and tied bits of bark onto fish hooks to increase the chances of a large catch. I’ll have to get some for Al. They also made deodorant from the dried and pulverized bark, according to the Audubon Society’s Western Forrests.

As you can see, the thorns are quite large, and apparently very painful, should you come in contact with them. “The barbed thorns inflict wounds sufficiently unpleasant as to have given rise to the persistent myth that they are tipped with poison”. I’ve never heard of Devil’s Club Jam, so maybe the berries aren’t that tasty. Or, maybe they’re just too painful to gather. I’m sure that doesn’t stop the bears though.

I slept in unitl 0730 hrs this morning. I couldn’t believe it when I looked at the clock. Well, I’ve probably missed everything worth photographing.

Where to start. Well, I decided to check out the head of the inlet first, since it’s not too far from the boat. I paddled along the shoreline, enjoying the wonderful fragrance of the forest. I was hoping to spot a mink. Suddenly, a very large black bear appeared,just emerging from the trees not too far away. I guess he slept in too.

He ambled up the beach, looking for anything and everything that might be tasty.

His first course was mussels that were growing on the sunken trees that were exposed by the lower low tide.

I think I’ll call him Scarface.

Then, it was on to turning rocks for his next course.

And then, dessert. Today, the elderberries looked irresistible, and easy on the figure too.

Just as he was really getting into a really good patch, a very annoying crow started hassling him with his incessant cawing.

Scarface turned around and gave him The Stare.

We’re up early and underway by 0630 hrs, headed for Klemtu for fuel, water and groceries.  That’s our plan anyway.  The wind and seas are calm, and we have miles of visibility — perfect.  As we head up Finlayson Channel, however, we can see fog in the distance.

As we watched a tug-with-tow disappear into the fog, Al called him on the VHF to ask what his visibility was.  He said he had about 500 yards, and warned us about a huge tree floating mid-channel.  It appeared that the fog is only in Finlayson Channel.  Klemtu Passage, up ahead, was clear.  That’s a stroke of luck.

About a mile into  Klemtu Passage, I looked out the windshield and was surprised to see this float plane headed right for us.

The fuel dock was full, but we were fortunate enough to find space at the dock where the locals tie up.

I spotted a lodge I’d never noticed before, the Spirit Bear Lodge — probably a community center.

We’ve been on a tour of the sweat lodge, which was very impressive.

I watched as a local couple paddled their canoe to the sweat lodge.

We walked up to the grocery store and were delighted to find that the ferry had delivered fresh stuff just two days ago.  We couldn’t believe our good fortune.  The ferry only comes every two weeks, and we didn’t know the schedule.  We found beautiful mangoes, pineapple, apples, pears, bananas, broccoli, onions, cauliflower, cabbage, bellpeppers, huge mushrooms that will be perfect for stuffing, milk, sour cream, and corn chips…unbelievable!  They usually have a few wilted carrots, a couple of onions and shriveled potatoes on offer.  But today, they were far better supplied than Shearwater.  Amazing! However, they did not have water on the fuel dock, because their river is dry.  So, we didn’t bother getting fuel, since we didin’t really need it, but were only going to fuel up so that we could get water.  Oh, well.  In no time, we were underway for Bottleneck Inlet, where we plan to hang out for a few days.   When we arrived at Bottleneck, a boat was just leaving.  We figured there were probably other boats in the anchorage, since this is a beautiful spot.  But, we were pleasantly surprised to find we had the whole place to ourselves.

Looks like another rainy day. Rain or no rain, I’m out paddling by 0630 hrs. This morning I’m concentrating on the north shore. I’d spotted a Blue Heron fishing nearby, and managed to get this one shot before it flew.

I was hoping to see Sandhill Cranes this morning, but they didn’t show up. I did, however, spot this Stellar’s Jay and got this one shot.

So, I paddled on up the shoreline, looking for anything of interest. Suddenly, I spotted a doe standing as if frozen, staring at me. I slowly got out my camera and was able to get quite a few shots.

Eventually, she decided I was just a little too close for comfort and turned tail and headed for the trees.

So, I headed for the next point, looking for wildflowers. We’ve had our hummingbird feeder up since we got here, and haven’t seen one hummer. I figure they must be sipping nectar from wildflowers instead; but, I hadn’t seen any wildflowers either, until now.

Finally, the rain let up and it looked like we might get a bit of sun today.  As I was heading back to the boat, I spotted Mr. Clean. He was busy bathing and paid me no mind at all.

I slept in a bit this morning….ah, such luxury. Consequently, I didn’t get paddling until 0715 hrs. Oh, well. It’s raining again today, making it difficult to get shots between rain cells.

Not too far from the boat I spotted this Yellowlegs, which I’ve never seen before, and probably would have missed if I hadn’t slept in.

And, I finally got a shot, just barely, of the Sandhill Crane, before it disappeared into the trees.

The Sandhills here are really shy.

I paddled along the south shore for awhile before spotting this Kingfisher.

I checked my watched and decided I’d better head back for the boat. I was pretty soaked. About that time, an otter…not the one I call Mr. Clean,but a smaller one…popped up right in front of me, chewing on a fish. He was as startled as I was. I scrambled to get my camera out, but he was too fast for me. I followed him for about 20 minutes hoping to get a shot, but each time he dove before I could get him. Then, he scrambled up the shore of a little island and was gone. Darn!

I continued on toward the boat. Just before I got there, I spotted Mr. Clean! He was doing a little fishing, and a little grooming — not the extensive scrubbing he gave himself yesterday, however, and not long enough for me to get any decent still shots. You will have to check out my video on YouTube when I get back to Seattle.

We’ve had a change in weather overnight. The blue skies are all gone. As I suited up to go kayaking, I could see that I’d probably be dealing with some rain before I got back to the boat.

I started paddling toward the entrance to the inlet, following the shoreline. Before I’d gone very far I encountered this very large and bright jellyfish.

The water is unusually warm and full of plankton, schools of baby fish, and a variety of jellyfish.

I’d just taken my last photo of the jellyfish when I noticed some movement out of the corner of my eye. It was a blue heron. When I moved, he took flight and landed in a nearby tree.

The rain had started and I was having a devil of a time keeping my camera dry, but I was hoping the rain wouldn’t amount to much, so I continued on. My persistence was rewarded with the most hilarious sight I’ve seen in a long time. At first I thought I’d spotted a couple of seals “playing”. They appeared to be rolling and rolling. When I zoomed in, however, I found that it was not a couple of seals, but a single sea otter giving himself a good wash. He scrubbed and scrubbed, from head to toe and tail. I got a great video I’ll post on YouTube first chance I get.

The rain was really coming down by now, and I should have turned back and paddled straight for the boat. But, I kept thinking, “I’ll turn back at the next point.” Then, I spotted a Stellar’s Jay, a bird I’ve been trying to find for years.